If you are looking for the best 1000-Watt amp to match it with your new car speakers or a subwoofer, this is a great place to start your search.
Our article on 9 best 1000-Watt amps is designed to help you understand all the important characteristics of car amps and find the best car amp for your needs and your budget.
Page Contents
Why Would You Need A Car Amp?
There are three possible reasons to buy a car amp. If you want your existing car speaker system to sound better and you feel that your preinstalled amp doesn’t really meet the capabilities of your speaker system, buying a larger and more capable power amp sounds like a viable idea.
Also, if you want to upgrade your car speakers and install something better, louder, and more refined, buying a new car amp is a must.
Connecting those new speakers to your old and puny built-in amp is pointless. In the end, if you just want to add an external car subwoofer, you will most definitely need a new car amp.
What to (or not to) Expect When Buying a Car Amp?
One thing you should not expect is honest advertising. Some of the amp manufacturers (especially those manufacturers that make cheap but ‘’powerful’’ amps that are almost too good to be true) don’t offer actual power ratings.
Their power ratings are arbitrary and don’t really represent the actual output power. So, you should watch and compare those power ratings carefully.
The thing is – there is no mandatory industry standard that has to be respected by all the manufacturers.
There’s a thing called CEA 2006-B car amplifier standard but, since there is no legal obligation for the manufacturers to comply with this standard, don’t expect them to be honest.
Some of these manufacturers offer power ratings that are very far from the actual ratings.
Recommended : Our selection of 5 best 5000-Watt amps
Luckily, there’s a simple way to calculate the max output power of an amplifier you want to buy – you just need a little bit of physics (Ohm’s Law, to be precise).
In order to calculate the actual power rating, you have to multiply the voltage (provided by your car’s battery) by the amp’s fuse rating (which is the average current draw and can be found in the specs list) and then multiply the result by the efficiency factor (approx. 0.6 for analog amps or 0.8 for digital amps).
The voltage provided by your vehicle varies and goes up to 15V (while driving) but you can use 14.4V or 13.5V (more conservative value) for your calculations.
So, if you are looking for a cheap amp and you don’t really need all those 1000W of power, you can use the given equation to calculate the actual power rating.
In many cases, those cheap generic amps will deliver only 15-25% of the advertised output (200 or 250W of max power output instead of 1000W).
On the other hand, most of the reputable amp manufacturers will offer more conservative ratings – their 1000W amps will be able to output more than 1000 Watts of power (up to 1300W).
Recommended : List of 8 best 3000-Watt amps
The number 1000 in our title usually refers to the maximum power output which is not the same thing as RMS/continuous power output (RMS output is always lower) and it’s not the same thing as power output per channel unless we are looking at some 1-channel amp.
If the max power output of a 2-channel amp is rated at 1000W, the amp will deliver up to 500W per channel (usually at 2Ω).
The output also depends on the speaker impedance which is another thing you should consider when buying a new car amp.
It sounds a bit complicated but it’s not that hard – you just have to be patient and careful.
Our Top Picks
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Should You Buy Mono, 2-channel or Multichannel Amp?
Well, this entirely depends on your needs and your future plans.
If you just want to add a subwoofer to the existing speaker system and you don’t want to upgrade your entire system, some powerful monoblock (1-channel amp) will do just fine.
If you want to upgrade your stereo system and you don’t want a subwoofer, 2-channel system is a good option.
If you want to upgrade your entire system and add a subwoofer to this system, you will have to spend more and buy 4-channel or even 6-channel amp.
In some cases, you will have to bridge 2 channels to supply the adequate amount of power to the subwoofer.
Now that you know some basic things about car amps, here are our top picks. Our list of 9 best 1000-Watt amps is divided into three parts – best under $100, best under $200, and best over $200.
If you are looking for the amps that can actually deliver 1000W, you should avoid amps under $100.
Best 1000-Watt Amps Under $100
In our experience, none of the amps priced under $100 can actually supply the advertised amount of power to your speakers.
Those ratings you can find on the box are just meaningless numbers. We have picked four amps we liked the most and tried to give you some actual numbers.
We are not saying these amps are bad but they definitely don’t offer the kind of performance you would expect from a 1000W amp.
So, if you want to install some power-hungry subwoofer (something like 10 or 12-inch, 1000W max power), you should probably avoid these amps and invest more than $100.
On the other hand, if you are looking for something that could drive your 50W or 100W stereo speakers (or even a single 250W or 500W subwoofer), these amps are viable choices.
1. Planet Audio AC1000.2 Anarchy
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.2]
Planet Audio AC1000.2 is a 2-channel class A-B car amp with an advertised power output of 1000W.
Impressions
Along with the amp, you’ll get a wired subwoofer level controller, user manual, and 1-year warranty card.
The Warranty can be extended up to 6 years. Wiring kit is not included and you have to buy it separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for 8/10/12 gauge OFC wire – don’t buy CCA cables).
The amp is 10in long, 2.6in tall, and 9.5in wide. It’s not the smallest out there but it should easily fit under your seat.
AC1000.2 features both low (RCA) and high-level inputs so you don’t have to buy a high to low-level adapter. This is a 2-channel amp so you will find 2 speaker terminals on the back panel.
The amp also has variable low and high-pass filters. Low-pass crossover range spans from 45Hz to 90Hz. High-pass crossover range spans from 50Hz to 500Hz.
The amp also features bass boost controls (0-18db) on the unit itself and an additional bass level controller that you can install if you want to but it’s not absolutely necessary.
AC1000.2 offers stable performance when used with 2Ω-8Ω speakers. It’s not certified for 1Ω speakers. When used in bridged mode (which is also allowed) it will deliver stable performance with 4Ω -8Ω speakers (not stable with 1Ω/2Ω/3Ω speakers in bridged mode). The fuse rating is 25A.
The amp also features short/overheat protection and has a nice-looking backlit ANARCHY writing on the top (it will light up when the amp is turned on).
Now, let’s talk about power ratings. AC1000.2 is advertised as 1000W amp (this is the max power output in bridged mode with 4Ω load).
It is supposed to deliver 500W per channel (2Ω loads) or 250W with 4Ω loads. This sounds pretty cool but it’s not quite true. These power ratings are actually very optimistic.
Based on our calculations, this amp can output only 216W of power (max output). So, if you need something to drive your 2 8-inch 500W subwoofers, this amp is not a good choice.
On the other hand, if you need something for your 50W RMS front stereo speakers, AC1000.2 will do the job.
Still, if the speaker’s RMS power rating exceeds the actual power output of the amp, the amp will quickly become really hot.
Advantages
- Stylish and sleek design with a backlit ANARCHY writing
- Compact and easy to install
- Low and high-level inputs
- Variable low-pass and high-pass filters
- Bass-boost and Subwoofer level controller
- Compatible with 2Ω-4Ω speakers in 2-channel mode and 4Ω-8Ω speakers in bridged mode
- Overheat/short protection
Disadvantages
- Not compatible with 1Ω/2Ω/3Ω speakers in bridged mode
- The amp delivers only 20% of the advertised 1000W output
- It gets hot quite easily (especially when connected to more power-hungry speakers)
2. BOSS RIOT R1100M MONOBLOCK Amp
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.3]
BOSS R1100M is a 1-channel (monoblock) class A-B car amp with an advertised power output of 1100W.
Impressions
Along with the BOSS RIOT R1100M amp, you’ll get a subwoofer level wired controller (you don’t have to install it if you don’t want to), user manual, and 1-year warranty (can be extended to 6 years).
The mounting/wiring kit is not included and you have to buy it separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for 8/10/12 gauge OFC wired – don’t buy those cheaper CCA wiring kits).
In many ways, this amp looks like the previously reviewed Planet Audio AC1000.2 and they are probably made in the same factory (by the same manufacturer).
The amplifier is compact and boxy. It’s black with an illuminated BOSS logo on the top (it lights up when you turn it on). All the inputs are on the left side and all the speaker outputs are on the right.
The amp is 10.4in long, 9.1in wide, and 2.25in tall. Installing the amp should not be a huge hassle and it can fit many spaces.
The amp has high-level and low-level (RCA) inputs, which makes the installation easier and eliminates the need for additional equipment (high-pass to low-pass adapter).
R1100M is a monoblock amp and it’s supposed to supply power to an additional subwoofer that you want to add to your existing speaker system.
R1100M has a variable low-pass crossover which allows you to select the frequencies that are sent to the subwoofer. The crossover range spans from 35Hz to 160Hz.
The amp also has the bass-boost feature (0-18dB) and subwoofer level controller which is wired and has to be connected to the amp and installed somewhere in your car.
This monoblock amp offers stable performance with 2Ω-8Ω speakers and doesn’t support bridged mode (there’s no bridged mode for monoblock amps).
The amp also has overheat/short protection and it will turn off if it gets too hot or if there is some kind of circuitry issue.
And now, the most interesting part. R1100M is supposed to deliver up to 1100W of power (max output) into 2Ω load or 250W of RMS power into 4Ω load.
Now, based on the available info on the fuse rating (30A) and type of amplification (class A-B), you can calculate the actual max power rating (see the equation below).
As you can see the actual max power output is significantly lower (259W) than the advertised power output (1100W). So, what’s the conclusion?
This BOSS amp can drive some 100W RMS subwoofer and it can probably handle 200W RMS but if you want to install a stronger and more demanding subwoofer (something like 500W RMS sub), R1100M is not a good choice and it will get very hot in no time.
Advantages
- Sleek and elegant design with a backlit BOSS logo
- Compact and boxy – easy to install
- Low and high-level inputs
- Variable low-pass filter (35Hz to 160Hz)
- Bass-boost and subwoofer level controller
- Stable performance with 2Ω-8Ω speakers
- Overheat and short circuit protection
- Satisfying performance with less-demanding subwoofers (up to 150W RMS)
Disadvantages
- The difference between actual and advertised max power output is really big (259W VS 1100W)
- The amp is not stable at 1Ω
3. Sound Storm EV2.1000
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.3]
Soundstorm Storm EV2.1000, just like the previous two amps, probably comes from the same factory. It’s a simple 2-channel class A-B car amp with an advertised max power output of 1000W (in bridged mode at 4Ω load).
Impressions
Sound Storm EV2.1000 comes along with a bass level wired controller, high-level input plug, user manual, and 1-year warranty (extendable to 6 years).
Wiring kit is not included and you have to buy it separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for 8/10/12 gauge OFC cables – don’t buy CCA wiring kits).
Like the previous two amps, EV2.1000 is compact and sleek. The only difference is that it doesn’t have a backlit logo.
On the left panel, there are high and low-level inputs, input controls, and crossover controls. On the opposite panel, there are speaker outputs, power connectors (battery, ground, and remote), and fuse.
EV2.1000 is 10in long, 9.5in wide, and 2.5in tall. So, it’s small enough to fit under your seat.
The amp features high-level and low-level (RCA) inputs so you don’t have to buy any additional conversion equipment (high to low-level adapter). It also has variable input sensitivity controls.
EV2.1000 has low and high-pass filters which allow you to choose which frequencies are sent to which speakers/drivers.
Low-pass crossover range spans from 45Hz to 90Hz while the high-pass range spans from 60Hz to 1.2kHZ. The amp also supports bass boost (up to 18dB) and comes with a bass-level controller for quick adjustments.
The amp supports stereo (2-channel) and bridged (1-channel) operation. In stereo mode, it delivers stable performance with 2Ω-8Ω speakers.
In mono mode (bridged) the minimum allowed impedance is 4Ω (the max is 8Ω). The amp doesn’t offer stable performance in bridged mode when connected to 1Ω/2Ω/3Ω subwoofers.
Just like the BOSS and Planet Audio amps, EV2.1000 features short and overheat protection and it will shut off automatically if it gets too hot or if there is some short circuit problem with the speakers.
When it comes to power ratings, the situation is very similar to the previous two amps. The advertised max power output (bridged mode, 4Ω load) is 1000W. It’s also advertised that the amp delivers 250W RMS into 4Ω loads (stereo mode) or 500W max power into 2Ω loads.
In reality, EV2.1000 can’t deliver that much. Based on the given info on fuse rating (30A) and type of amplification (class A-B), we have calculated the actual max power output (see the equation below).
As you can see, the max output is 259W which is pretty far from the advertised 1000W. So, in conclusion, EV2.1000 can hardly be used with some 12in 500W RMS subwoofer.
It’s good enough for running two 50W or 100W stereo speakers but if you need something powerful for your power-hungry speakers, you have to invest more.
Advantages
- Sleek and elegant design
- Compact and boxy – easy to install
- Low and high-level inputs
- Variable low-pass (45Hz to 90Hz) and high-pass (60Hz to 1.2kHz) filter
- Bass-boost and subwoofer level controller
- Stable performance at 2Ω-8Ω in stereo mode or 4Ω-8Ω in bridged mode
- Overheat/short protection
- Satisfying performance with less-demanding speakers (up to 150W RMS)
Disadvantages
- There’s a significant difference between the actual and advertised max power output (259W VS 1000W)
- The amp is not stable at 1Ω in stereo mode and it’s not stable at 1Ω /2Ω /3Ω in bridged mode
4. Pioneer GM-A6704
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.4]
Pioneer GM-A6704 is our top pick in this price range, not only because it’s made by a reputable manufacturer but also because it can output more power than any of those really cheap amps.
GM-A6704 is a 4-channel class A-B amp with an advertised output of 1000W but its actual power output still doesn’t meet the advertised 1000W value.
Impressions
GM-A6704 comes with a high-level input, some mounting screws, user manual, and 1-year warranty card. The wiring equipment is not included and you have to buy it separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for 8/10/12 gauge OFC cables – do not buy those cheap CCA wiring kits).
Pioneer is a bit larger than the previous three amps and you should probably think about the dimensions and measure the available space in your car before ordering. GM-A6704 is 14in long, 8.5in wide, and 2.4in tall.
On the left side, there are high and low-level inputs as well as gain knobs (for A and B channels), low-pass and high-pass selectors, input/mode selector (2ch/4ch), high-pass dial (for the A channel) and bass boost for the B channel.
On the right side, there are two 25A fuses, power and ground connectors, and 4 speaker terminals.
GM-A6704 features both high-level (speaker level) and low-level (RCA) inputs so you don’t have to buy any adapters. The high-level plug is also included.
The low-pass filter is fixed at 80Hz while the high-pass filter (for the A channel) is variable. The high-pass crossover range spans from 40Hz to 500Hz.
There’s the bass boost feature for the A channel and it can boost 50Hz frequency by 0dB/6dB/12dB.
GM-A6704 is a four-channel amp and has three working modes – 4-channel mode, 3-channel, and 2-channel mode (bridged). In 4-channel mode, it delivers stable performance at 2Ω-8Ω loads.
In stereo (2-channel) mode, GM-A6704 delivers stable performance at 4Ω-8Ω loads. It not stable at 1Ω/2Ω/3Ω in bridged mode.
When it comes to power output, GM-A6704 is advertised as 1000W amp but it can’t really deliver that much power. Based on the fuse rating (2x25A) and other available specs, this amp can deliver up to 432W of power (see the equation below).
So, the actual max power output is not even close to 1000W but it’s still better than the other entry-level amps. That’s what makes this amp our first choice when it comes to best 1000-Watt amps under $100.
RMS power ratings are much more realistic. GM-A6704 delivers 60W of continuous power into four 4Ω channels or 95W into four 2Ω channels.
In bridged mode (2 channels), the amp will deliver 190W of continuous power per channel.
GM-A6704 is a great choice in case you need something to drive your front and rear 50W RMS speakers (2Ω. 3Ω or 4Ω) or if you want to supply power to two 50W RMS front speakers (channel A) and one 150W RMS subwoofer (bridged channel B).
Advantages
- Sleek and elegant design
- Compact and boxy – easy to install
- Low (RCA) and high-level (speaker level) inputs
- Fixed low-pass filter (80Hz) and variable high-pass filter (40Hz-500Hz)
- Bass-boost feature (at 50Hz)
- Can work in 3 modes – 2-channel (both channels bridged), 3-channel (channel B bridged) and 4-channel
- Stable performance with 2Ω-8Ω speakers in stereo mode or 4Ω-8Ω speakers in bridged mode
- Overheat and short circuit protection
- Satisfying performance with less-demanding speakers/subwoofers (up to 150W RMS)
Disadvantages
- It doesn’t offer stable performance with 1Ω/2Ω/3Ω speakers in bridged mode
- Actual max power output is significantly lower than the advertised power output (432W VS 1000W)
Best 1000-Watt Amps Under $200
The next two amps are made by more reputable manufacturers and offer significantly better performance than the previously reviewed amps under $100.
Their advertised power ratings are pretty close to actual power outputs. Our top pick from this category is SkarAudio RP-150.4AB 4-channel class A-B amp.
5. Infinity REF-704A
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.5]
Infinity REF-704A is a 4-channel class A-B amp with an advertised output of 1000W. Infinity REF-704A has a greater actual power output than all the previously mentioned amps and is compatible with some advanced technologies like ADAS (Advanced Driver Assistance Systems) and HALOSonic.
Impressions
Inside the box, you will find your amp, high-level input adapters (high-level to RCA), 2 spare fuses, some Infinity stickers, and 1-year warranty card.
The wiring kit is not included and you have to buy it separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for 8/10/12 gauge OFC cables – don’t buy those cheap CCA kits).
In terms of design, REF-704A is definitely one of our favorites. The amp is clean and sleek. On the top, there’s only the Infinity logo. You will find all the inputs on the left side.
There is no actual high-level input (only RCA inputs) but they support high-level signal – you just have to use the included adapter and adjust the high-level/low-level switch.
The amp also has two RCA pre-outs that you can use if you want to daisy chain another amp for the subwoofer.
On the left side, there are also two high-pass/low-pass switches, high-pass dial, gain dial, and ADAS and HALOSonic inputs.
All the speaker terminals along with power input, ground input, and two 30A fuses are on the right side.
The amp is easy for installation and quite compact but you will have to consider the available space in your car. Infinity REF-704A is 14.1in long, 7.3in wide, and 2.2in tall.
It supports high and low-level signals even though it has only RCA inputs (they are compatible with both signal types). There are also two RCA pre-outs for daisy chaining.
The amp also features variable high-pass and low-pass filters (32Hz to 320Hz).
If you want to adjust the low-pass filter, you have to set the crossover switch to LPF and if you want to adjust the high-pass filter, you have to set the switch to HPF.
If the crossover switch is set to full (full range), adjusting the high/low-pass dial will have no effect.
If you have ADAS or HALOSonic equipment installed in your car, you’ll be happy to know that Infinity REF-704A is compatible with ADAS and HALOSonic technologies. If you don’t have this advanced equipment, then you will have no use from ADAS and HALOSonic inputs.
The amp can work in 3 modes – 4-channel, 3-channel (bridged rears and stereo fronts) or 2-channel (bridged fronts and rears).
The advertised max power output is 1000W but, in reality, it can deliver up to 518W (based on the fuse rating, amplification type, and Ohm’s law).
RMS power outputs are more realistic and seem correct. REF-704A will deliver 100W per channel (at 2Ω in 4-channel mode), 70W per channel (at 4Ω in 4-channel mode), or 200W per channel (at 4Ω in 2-ch/bridged mode).
Advantages
- Compact and sleek design
- Low-level RCA inputs compatible with high-level signal
- RCA pre outputs for daisy chaining
- Variable high-pass and low-pass filters
- Three working modes – 2-channel (stereo, bridged), 3-channel, or 4-channel
- Stable at 2Ω-8Ω in 4-channel mode
- Stable at 4Ω-8Ω in bridged mode
- Stable and reliable performance
Disadvantages
- The actual power output is not on par with the advertised power output (518W VS 1000W)
6. Skar Audio RP-150.4AB
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.7]
Skar Audio RP-150.4AB is the first amp on the list that can actually output the advertised 1000W of power and that makes it our top pick when it comes to car amps under $200. RP-150.4AB is a 4-channel class AB amp.
Impressions
Along with the RP-150.4AB, you’ll get some mounting screws, user manual, and 1-year warranty. Wiring gear is not included in the package and you have to buy it separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for OFC cables).
The amp has a relatively small footprint. It’s black with a simple Skar Audio logo on the top. The amp is 17.75in long, 6.25in wide, and 2.25in tall.
On one side, there are RCA low-level inputs (there are no speaker level inputs).
Right next to the inputs, you have 2 gain dials, high-pass and low-pass crossover filters, 2 crossover switches (LPF/Full Range/HPF), and remote input (remote is not included in the package).
On the other end, there are speaker terminals as well as power and ground terminals.
RP-150.4AB amp features variable low-pass and high-pass filters. Low-pass crossover range spans from 50Hz to 500Hz while the high-pass crossover range spans from 20Hz to 5kHz.
There are also two selectable bass boost switches that can be set to 0dB, 6dB or 12dB depending on your taste.
The amp features overheat, short, voltage, and DC protection.
RP-150.4AB has three operating modes – 2-channel (bridged), 3-channel, and 4-channel.
RP-150.4AB can actually deliver 1000W of pure power. Thanks to 120A fuse, this amp will output up to 1036W of power (see the equation below).
When it comes to continuous power output, RP-150.4AB will deliver 250W per channel into 4 2Ω speakers, 150W per channel into four 4Ω speakers, and 500W per channel into two 4Ω speakers (in bridged mode).
RP-150.4AB delivers stable and reliable performance with high power output. It does get hot over time when connected to some power-hungry speakers but it’s still much better than any of the previously mentioned amps.
Advantages
- Sleek and compact
- Easy and simple installation
- Variable low-pass (50Hz-500Hz) and high-pass (20Hz-5kHz) filters
- Selectable bass boost (0dB/6dB/12dB)
- 4-way protection (overheat, short, voltage, and DC)
- Three operating modes (2-ch, 3-ch, 4-ch)
- Bridgeable
- Soft start turn-on
- The actual max power output is on par with the advertised power output
- Stable and reliable performance at 2Ω-8Ω in 4-ch mode (4Ω-8Ω in bridged mode)
Disadvantages
- It doesn’t have high-level (speaker level) inputs
Best 1000-Watt Amps Under $300
The next three amps are, along with previously reviewed Skar Audio RP-150.4AB, are our absolute favorites when it comes to 1000-Watt amps.
They are all made by reputable manufacturers and they can all really deliver 1000W of power.
7. JL Audio JX1000/1D MONOBLOCK
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.7]
JX1000/1D is the first class-D amp on this list. Digital amplification is more efficient than analog amplification and enables more reliable and cooler performance. JX1000/1D is a monoblock (1-channel) amp and it can really do wonders with your 1000W subwoofer.
You can even daisy chain two amps if you want even more thump.
Impressions
Along with the JX1000/1D, you’ll get some mounting screws, high-level input plugs, user manual, and 2-year warranty. As always, there is no wiring kit included and you have to buy it separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for the OFC cables).
The amp is not as sleek and stylish as Skar Audio amps but that’s not the most important thing. JX1000/1D is smaller but significantly heavier than the previously reviewed amps which kind of gives you the impression of high quality.
The amp is 10.94in long, 7.68in wide, 2.09in tall, and weighs 7 pounds.
On one end of the speaker, there are low-level (RCA) and high-level (speaker level) inputs. There are also two RCA outputs for daisy chaining another amp (in case you want to add two subs to your car speaker system).
Along with the high and low-level inputs, you will also see LPF dial, gain dial, subwoofer level controller input, and bass boost knob.
On the other end, there are power input, ground input, and speaker terminals.
JX1000/D features both high and low-level inputs so you are not going to need any kind of adapter. It also has a low-pass crossover filter. The crossover range spans from 50Hz to 200Hz.
The amp also has the bass boost feature centered around 45Hz. You can boost the bass by up to 12dB.
The amp features remote input for the subwoofer controller but the remote is optional and it’s not included in the package.
Your car speaker system will turn on when you start your car but you won’t hear any popping or crackling thanks to the soft start turn-on feature (the current draw increases gradually).
When it comes to power ratings, JX1000/1D is a digital amp and can convert much more current into power. The output is rated at 1000W (in this case, 1000W is RMS power output) but that’s just a bit too optimistic.
Based on the Ohm’s law (see the equation below), the max power output is 921W which is pretty close to the advertised 1000W.
It is possible that the amp is actually more efficient than we assumed which would make the advertised power rating even more accurate.
Assuming that the efficiency is 90%, the max power output would be 1036W.
The advertised RMS power outputs are also optimistic but pretty close to the actual ratings. The amp will deliver 1000W into 2Ω speaker, 750W into 3Ω speaker, and 500W of continuous power into 4Ω speaker. The amp is not stable at 1Ω.
Advantages
- Simple, clean, and compact design
- Simple installation
- Low-level (RCA) and high-level (speaker level) inputs
- RCA pre outputs for daisy chaining
- Subwoofer level controller input
- Variable low-pass filter (50Hz-200Hz)
- Bass boost (up to 12dB)
- Soft start turn-on
- Stable performance at 2Ω-8Ω
- The amp can actually deliver 1000W
Disadvantages
- Not stable at 1Ω
8. Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X1BD MONOBLOCK
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.9]
Punch P1000BD is a monoblock (1-channel) class-D amp with an advertised RMS power output of 1000W. Its max power output goes well over 1000W.
This amp is our top choice when it comes to monoblock amps under $400.
The price could be an insurmountable obstacle for some people but we still think that P1000X1BD is worth it.
Impressions
Along with the P1000X1BD, you’ll get mounting screws, user manual, and 1-year warranty.
You have to buy the wiring kit separately (Note: if you want to achieve the best possible performance, you should be looking for the OFC cables – don’t buy those cheap CCA kits).
The amp has an input for the bass level remote (PLC2) but the remote is also sold separately.
The amp features nice and clean design with a brushed aluminum housing and large heatsinks on the left and right side.
All the inputs/outputs are on the front panel (RCA low-level and RCA pass-thru inputs, speaker outputs, remote input, power input, ground input) and all the controls (gain, LPF, subsonic filter switch, bass boost) are on the top panel.
The amplifier is compact but still quite heavy. It weighs almost 13 pounds, and it’s 13.3in long, 7.8in wide, and 2.4ind tall.
P1000X1BD doesn’t have a dedicated high-level (speaker level) input but it has RCA pass-thru inputs along with RCA low-level inputs so you don’t need an adapter for connecting your factory radio to the amp.
The amplifier has a variable low-pass filter (50Hz to 250Hz) as well as bass boost (up to 18dB) centered at 45Hz and subsonic filter (at 28Hz).
Unlike those previously mentioned cheap monoblock amps, this one is stable at 1Ω. Based on the fuse rating (140A) and class-D efficiency, P1000X1BD amp can output up to 1612W of power (see the equation below).
The manufacturer offered more conservative max power output ratings. Based on the specs, P1000X1BD will output up to 1430W into 1Ω load, 874W into 2Ω load, and 491W into 4Ω load.
The amp will also deliver 1000W of continuous power into 1Ω load or 500W into 2Ω load.
P1000X1BD delivers very stable and reliable performance and it doesn’t get as hot as some cheap monoblock amps.
It features overheat, overload, and short circuit protection so you don’t have to worry about damaging the amp.
Advantages
- Sleek and elegant design
- Clean (C.L.E.A.N) and simple installation
- Low-level inputs and high-level pass-thru RCA inputs
- Low-pass filter (50Hz-250Hz), subsonic filter (28Hz), bass boost (up to 18dBB)
- Stable operation at 1Ω-4Ω
- Continuous 1000W power output at 1Ω
Disadvantages
- Expensive
9. Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5
Editor’s Rating: [usr 4.9]
Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5 comes from the same Punch series as the previous monoblock amp.
This is a 5-channel amp that can supply power to your entire car speaker system (4 speakers + 1 subwoofer) and it can output more than 1000W of max power (combined, not per channel).
The only real disadvantage of this amp is the price (approx. $500) but if you can spend that much and you are looking for the cleanest and easiest way to run your whole aftermarket speaker system, Punch P1000X5 is the best option.
Impressions
In terms of design, P1000X5 is absolutely the same as the previous P1000X1BD monoblock. It’s just a little bit longer and significantly heavier. The amp weighs 15.3lb. It’s 15.1in long, 7.8in wide, and 24in tall.
All the inputs/outputs are on the front and all the controls are on the top and covered with an aluminum plate (so-called stealth control panel).
The amp has only RCA (low-level) inputs but they can handle high-level signals, too – you don’t need an adapter to connect your preinstalled radio to the amp.
P1000X5 is a mixture of analog and digital amplification. 4 channels (for the front and rear speakers) feature A-B amplification while the sub channel is digital.
4 analog channels have variable high-pass filters (50Hz to 250Hz) while the sub channel has a low-pass filter (50Hz-250Hz), bass boost (up to 18dB), and subsonic filter (28Hz).
P1000X5 can work in multiple modes and configurations (1-5 channels). Those 4 speaker channels are bridgeable. The speaker channels offer stable performance at 2Ω-4Ω, while the sub channel is stable at 1Ω-4Ω.
P1000X5 is CEA-2006 certified and, based on our calculations (see the equation below), it can output up to 1296W (total output – 5 channels combined).
At 4Ω, the amp will deliver 75W RMS per channel (4 speaker channels) + 150W RMS (subwoofer channel). At 2Ω, it will deliver 125W RMS per channel (4 speaker channels) + 300W RMS (subwoofer channel).
According to the specs, the maximum combined power output at 2Ω is 1300W (190W x4 + 540W).
Advantages
- Sleek and elegant design
- Clean (C.L.E.A.N) and simple installation
- Low-level RCA inputs (capable of receiving high-level signal)
- Variable high-pass filter (50Hz-250Hz)
- Low-pass filter (50Hz-250Hz), subsonic filter (28Hz), bass boost (up to 18dB)
- Speaker channels deliver stable operation at 2Ω-4Ω
- Subwoofer channel delivers stable operation at 1Ω-4Ω
- Reliable performance with up to 1300W combined power output
Disadvantages
- Expensive
This is the end of our list of 9 best 1000-Watt amps but we have a little extra for you. Here’s a simple buying guide with some important tips on what to pay attention to when buying a car amp.
Things to Pay Attention to When Buying 1000-Watt Car Amp (or any car Amp)
Advertised Power Output VS Actual Power Output
We have already talked about this but it doesn’t hurt to repeat since it’s very important. If you can’t spend more than $100, it’s extremely important not to trust the specs blindly.
You will have to dig deeper and check the fuse ratings. Then, you have to use the equation below and calculate the actual power output. You will be surprised to find out that some cheap 1000W amps can deliver only 250W.
If you don’t really need 1000W to run your speakers, those cheap amps will do the job but if you are actually looking for a 1000W amp, you will definitely have to spend more than $100 (preferably $200+).
Amp Dimensions
The external car amps are, naturally, larger and more powerful than your built-in amps, but there are always some limits. You still need it to be small enough to fit the desired space.
Finding the right one shouldn’t be such a difficult thing – there are many small (even tiny) but very powerful amps on the market.
Recommended : List of 9 best 1200-Watt amps
Amp Wiring
Wires and all the other equipment are usually not included in the package and you have to buy some wiring kit separately.
They don’t cost a fortune but there is still some price difference between CCA (Copper Cladded Aluminum) and OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) cables.
CCA wiring kits are usually priced around $20 while the OFC kits are priced around $60. Our advice is simple – don’t buy CCA cables, they are simply rubbish.
Features
This is the moment when things get tricky. The set of features you should be looking for depends on your needs and on your speaker system configuration.
Some amps have low and high-level inputs, others have high-pass, low-pass or even subsonic filters for the external subwoofers.
Naturally, you will have to pay more for these features.
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The Number of Speakers You Want Connect
The number of speakers you want to connect to the amp determines the kind of amp you are supposed to buy. If you only want to connect an external subwoofer, 1-channel amp (monoblock) will do the job.
If you want to connect more speakers, you will need 2-channel, 3-channel or 4-channel amp. For example, if you want to connect two speakers and a subwoofer, you’ll need at least 3-channel amp.
In some cases, you will have to use a 4-channel amp (in bridged mode) if you want to deliver enough power to the subwoofer.
Recommended : List of 9 best 1500-Watt amps
Impedance Matching
Another important thing you must consider is the speaker impedance. The amp needs to be compatible with the speaker impedance.
If it’s not compatible, there’s a great chance of overloading the amp.
Amp Warranty
This one is pretty obvious. You should buy your audio gear only from authorized sellers and have it installed by the authorized services.
If you don’t do that and if something breaks, the manufacturer will have the right to reject your warranty request.
You should also check the warranty period – some manufacturers offer a 6-year warranty for their amps but, in most cases, you should get 1 or 2-year warranty.
Recommended : List of 8 best 2000-Watt amps
Conclusion
There are thousands of different car amps on the market and finding the right one is not a simple thing.
If you are inexperienced and don’t know much about audio equipment and cars, you should probably ask some specialized service or shop for help.
If you still want to do everything on your own, you should at least follow the advice stated above.
In the end, here’s our final advice – you should be looking for an amp that delivers more power than you actually need.
It will cost you more but it will drive your speakers with ease, make the sound fuller, and reduce the chance of damaging your audio equipment.
It sounds strange but buying the amp that can’t deliver enough power to your speakers is much more dangerous than buying the one that can deliver more than your speakers need. N
umerous people have fried their speakers by trying to increase the gain because they thought that would increase the power output.
Here’s the thing – increasing the gain doesn’t actually increase the power output. Increasing the gain causes clipping, and clipping kills speakers.
Nice article… also pay attention to the amps on board fuse ratings. This gives a pretty good idea of the type of power the amp is capable of consuming and putting out. Usually multiply by 10… so if the amp has 2 x 30A fuses, the amp usually has no problems putting out 500-600 clean watts.